Tag Archives: up-cycled

Up-cycle for Winter

Upcycling a Classic Coat

I will show you how to up-cycle and simply sew to get a cosy classic coat, ready for the colder weather.

A coat can be an expensive garment to make, unless you up-cycle one you like the fabric of.

Here is my charity shop bargain, £3 for a wool navy coat, in very good condition.

bargain wool coat

I would love to be able to report that this “before” picture is really an “after weight loss” picture. However, my size has stayed the same but the coat was far too big, several sizes too big.

The material was good quality, a great colour for me, so worth some care and sewing. In fact, as the cost of material rises, I both buy, and advise others to buy, clothes that will provide fabric and haberdashery to use instead of buying new.

You may be interested to see how I up-cycled some denim jeans and some shirts to meke a lined tunic dress

Sometimes a £1 bargain rail charity shop, or car boot sale find will generate fabric, a zip and/or buttons. Extra—large cotton men’s shirts are a favourite up-cycle of mine for patchwork and crafting. It’s worth training your eyes to see pre-worn garments in a new light!

It’s much easier to take fabric away than to increase the size of a bargain!

This wool coat needed taking in by 12 inches, to have a fitted rather than sack like feel. After measuring, the first thing was to cut up the back of the lining to expose the coat’s construction.

Here is the maths:

The 12 inch reduction was then planned and divided:

4 inches by taking in the back seam by 2 inches

5 inches by taking in both side seams by 1.25 inches. (this was continued for the sleeve seams).

2 inches by creating 2 back darts, and 1 inch by moving the button position (the buttons were also replaced)

First some unpicking was needed:
The shoulder pads were removed
Either side of the bottom back and side seams

Either side of the top and bottom sleeve seams (armhole and cuff)

The seams were pinned and the new seam position marked with tailors chalk.

Because wool does not fray, straight stitch on my trusty Bernina
machine was used.

If the fabric had been one to fray, I would have considered using my overlocker (serger), to cut and finish the seam in one action.

After sewing the seams, they were trimmed to the original seam allowance, clipped in to the stich line and then pressed (with a steam iron on wool setting)

The lining was then taken in at the same places, except for the inside back.

The unpicked cuff, armhole and hem were then reattached to the lining, to complete the seam
alterations.

The back darts were positioned, pinned and marked with chalk as shown.

After stitching, these were pressed towards the centre back seam.

The centre back lining cut was then taken in and with right sides together stitched, leaving a portion to allow it to be turned back so the inside main and inside lining seam were together. The gap was slip stitched together to close.

The new buttons were sewn on further in and the original buttons removed. You can up-cycle something from one garment to create further designer items!

To embellish the completed coat, I made a brooch which was attached with a brooch back.

The coat was brushed to remove threads and fluff, and then steamed to remove a stain and refresh both the fabric and lining.

The completed upcycled coat. 12 inches smaller.

up-cycled coat

I would love to hear of your up-cycling, please get in touch, or comment below.

Read more on getting cosy

Splendid Shreds of Silk & Satin

This week it is 200 years since the birth of Charlotte Bronte and I have stitched a small patchwork quilt to celebrate this bicentenary, as part of The Brontë Challenge. Helen Moyes Designs Bronte Quilt

The Brontë Challenge invited Yorkshire quilters to make a small quilt reflecting this quote from Jane Eyre:

A certain little drawer, full of splendid shreds of silk and satin”

I challenged myself to only use both natural materials (silk, cotton and wool), and to only use items I already had in “my drawers”.

My circular quilt, reflects the turning of time and includes vintage silk tie ends, reflecting the romantic genre of Bronte’s novels. As I sewed, I wondered “who has worn these silk ties, and what are their stories?”

Helen Moyes Sewing a story with vintage silk ties

For the centre I used some hand pieced hexagons, I had been passed on by my friend Di, representing friendship, also a main theme in Brontë novels. Di had made these almost 50 years ago.

Helen Moyes Sewing Friendships

I used some cotton cream damask from my fabric stash for the base of my quilt front and up-cycled 2 layers of a “fulled” woollen jumper as the centre batting.

Helen Moyes Up-cycling for Bronte QuiltThe quilting was also done by hand, using variegated cotton thread.

Helen Moyes Hand Quilting Bronte Challenge

I also took some design inspiration from a patchwork quilt worked on by the Brontë sisters and their Aunt Branwell. This patchwork quilt remains unfinished but is double bed size. It is clear from Charlotte’s letters, sewing was not her favourite activity, but then it was more of an expected, rather than chosen, feminine activity in the 1800s and as a governess she was given lots of mending to do.

  Original Bronte Quilt top

Measuring 187cm x 214cm, the quilt consists of silks, taffetas, velvets and cotton and has a calico backing. It has been hand-sewn and the stitches are neat and even. In some places, the quilt has faded and it is possible to see backing papers, such as newspaper, which was common practice in quilt-making at the time. The Brontës also appear to have used fragments of old letters as paper templates.

The quilt is unfinished and was passed on to the family of Martha Brown, the Brontë family’s servant. The Brontë Society purchased the quilt in 1924.

atchwork quilt worked on by the Brontë sisters and their Aunt BranwellBronte Parsonage Museum

Over 50 small quilts, made to an even smaller than the usual “lap quilt” size specification I like to make, were submitted and are now hung as part of the exhibition. Mine was the only circular quilt, and my viewers choice vote goes to number 11, a more unusual collection of miniature pieces.

Bankfield Museum Bronte Quilt ChallengeYou can see my photo showing more detail on my Facebook page.

A few Sheffield Quilters made a new version of the Brontë quilt that is also in the Bankfield exhibition, alongside the original quilt.

Helen Moyes -Sarah Williamson Resurgam bronte Quilt

This new quilt is named “Resurgam”, the latin for “I will rise again”, which is inscribed on the headstone of the character helen Burns in Charlotte bronte’s novel Jane Eyre.

Resurgam is designed by my friend and fellow Sheffield quilter Sarah Williamson in memory of her father, Sir Raymond Potter, of Halifax, who was born on April 21st 1916 exactly 100 years after Charlotte. I had enjoyed a sneak preview of the quilt at Sarah’s home earlier this year, and was especially impressed by the way Sarah had reproduced the idea of printed paper pieces showing through the worn almost 200 year old quilt. She printed onto fabric, and used some of that in the piecing of the recent quilt. You can read more about Sarah’s involvement in the May Popular Patchwork magazine.

 

Text Printed Fabric Resurgam Sarah WilliamsonBronte Quilt

I was invited to the opening of the exhibition on Wednesday evening taking my almost 90 year old mother in law as my guest. We thoroughly enjoyed being part of the Brontë bicentenary celebrations, seeing all the different interpretations and skill demonstrated in the quilt challenge.

Here are some that stood out to me:

Helen Moyes My visit to Bronte Quilt Exhibition 2016 Catherine Davies Quilt

Helen Moyes My visit to Bronte Quilt Exhibition 2016 Pippa Wardman Quilt

Helen Moyes My visit to Bronte Quilt Exhibition 2016 Tricia Grindrod

Helen Moyes My visit to Bronte Quilt Exhibition 2016 Jaqueline

Helen Moyes My visit to Bronte Quilt Exhibition 2016 Wendy Latham Quilt

Helen Moyes My visit to Bronte Quilt Exhibition 2016 Heather Smith Quilt

Helen Moyes My visit to Bronte Quilt Exhibition 2016 Christine Dowie

I met the novelist Tracy Chevalier who presented the exhibition and whom developed a love of quilting during her research for her novel The Last Runaway whose heroine, Honor Bright, makes pieced patchwork quilts. Tracy has a quilt included in the Bankfield Museum exhibition.

Helen Moyes My visit to Bronte Quilt Exhibition 2016 Tracy Chevalier Quilt

You can read more about Tracy Chevalier and her quilting research for writing:

domestic arts blog

underground-railroad

Readers of my previous posts, will know I have been reading Jennifer Chiaverini quilting based novels, and recently my friend Shirley and I got confused discussing our reading, wondering if we had been reading the same book. But no, I had been reading Chiaverini’s novel The Runaway Quilt

helen Moyes Designs reading The Runaway Quilt

and Shirley Chevalier’s novel The Last Runaway

helen Moyes reading The Last Runaway

 Both novels involve quilting and the Underground Railroad for escaping slaves, which explains our confusion!

Tracy shares her love of Jane Eyre: “Jane is the voice of the disenfranchised, speaking out while maintaining her dignity and ultimately triumphing. It was only on rereading Jane Eyre last year that I recognised something of my own heroine Griet in Girl With a Pearl Earring; she too comes from nothing and quietly stands her ground. This is a common enough trope in writing now, but it was groundbreaking when Jane Eyre was published to instant acclaim in 1847”.

You can read more in the telegraph article

If you would like to see these quilts, Splendid Shreds of Silk & Satin: A Celebration of Charlotte Brontë in Quilts is at the Bankfield Museum, Akroyd Park, Boothtown Rd, Halifax HX3 6HG. Open Tue – Sat:10:00-16:00 until 11 Jun 2016. Details

The quilts will also be displayed at the International Festival of Quilts 11 – 14 August 2016 at the Birmingham NEC. More details.

If you get to visit either of the exhibitions, I would love to hear your thoughts.