Sharing my sewing adventures to show how to add a lining. Add a lining to take your sewing from home made to haute couture. Sew your own style.
Blue Trench Coat
My Spring wardrobe would not be complete without a coat to keep the blustery showers at bay.
Blue is a favourite of mine so I can choose to wear my blue boots or blue court shoes to complete the outfit. What colour coat would best suit you and your wardrobe? Sew your own style.
I used Simple Sew The Trench Coat pattern and some blue suiting from a local tailor.
This coat pattern is a flattering belted style without buttons. however it is short for a coat, and there in no guidance for adding a lining.
I made it more versatile to wear over a wider range of clothes, and in a range of weather by increasing the length.
Haute couture is French for “high sewing” or “high dressmaking” or “high fashion” and is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing. Not as difficult as the term may suggest, and is all about getting clothes right for you and not the same as anyone else. Sew your own style
Adding a lining
I chose some lovely Rose & Hubble cotton for the lining. The lining of a coat can be extra special, almost like a secret between the wearer and the coat, which can be chosen to be shared, or not!
I’m not a fan of slippery man-made fabric linings, as they can wear out quite fast, and be sweaty (this could just be me of course?!). I prefer a natural fabric which is more breathable, and in this case I chose a hard wearing cotton. I do tend to sling my coat around, when out and about in the car, or under seats etc at venues so they do need to stand up to this treatment!
What do you need to take into account?
The great thing about adding a lining is that all your seams are covered up so although they need finishing to stop any fraying, you don’t have to feel they will be open to inspection.
First things first, I always wash fabric so if there is going to be any shrinkage, it is before making.
While the fabric drys, inspect the pattern construction and instructions and decide on any alterations you want. I lengthened the belt as well as both the bodice and skirt length.
Cuting out in my kitchen as the worktop height is kinder on my back. I love using my fabric weights. Quicker and easier than pinning, especially with thick fabric. You can find these in my Etsy shop. I ship worldwide from Yorkshire. I’m also happy to create a custom order for you, if there is a particular colour or design you would like. Just let me know.
The lining pieces are the same as the main body (no need for the belt or facing though).
The sleeves and back pattern pieces are cut out the same as for the main fabric pieces.
You can see here where I use the main fabric piece to get the same length – this shows how much length I added – tall girls need more fabric!
Use the pattern markings for grain and fold lines for the lining.
Cutting out the lining pieces
However, because the lining is attached to the facing, the front lining pieces don’t want to be as wide as the main fabric front pieces.
In this pattern there’s lots of fullness from pleats in the front skirt pieces, which I din’t want in the lining, as it would be far too bulky.
You can see here how I pinned the pleats on the front skirt pattern piece and folded in the facing width to create my lining pattern piece.
Sewing in the lining
Make up the lining as a second version of the garment. If curves need clipping do this after neatening the edges. I love using pinking scissors for finishing seams of cotton fabric.
I hung my nearly finished garments up, to allow gravity to work and see how it would hang in wear. I checked the sizing before sewing together. The lining garment is placed wrong side to the wrong side of the main garment once the facing and lining are sewn together right sides together.
The lining needs to be 2 – 3 inches shorter than the outer coat and I didn’t hem them separately, but chose to sew the hems right sides together and then turn through.
At this stage there are no sleeves.
The sleeve is inserted into the main garment, right sides together with even gethering.
You won’t get a smooth lining finish if you don’t hand stitch the lining sleeve top, or head, in place. So, first sew the wrist part of the lining and sleeve together. Place right sides together with the lining on the outside. Machine stitch the wrist circle and then turn the sleeve lining to the inside of the sleeve. Match up the side seams and ensure it isn’t twisted.
Fold over the top edge of the sleeve lining and slip stitch it to the lining bodice, matching the undearm seams. Careful hand stitching here really does finish the garment off well.
The other thing I added to finish my coat, was silver top stitch along the front edge, all around the collar. Along with clipping the seams, and tapering the collar point, this really helps the collar to lie flat aswell as finishing the garment. Some extra attention to finishing details really helps to sew your own style. I am thinking about which sewist brooch to add.
I’m looking forward to the end of wintery weather here, so I can step out in my blue coat. What clothesmaking would help you to sew your own style?